OCEANA,

Water view restaurants are somewhat scarce in the Ocean State. But at Oceana, with its sweeping outlook over my favorite beach -- the surfer-speckled crescent of sand and waves called Narragansett Town Beach -- what could be better? Though Oceana turns out a popular version of New England-clam chowder ($6) and the lobster parfait, in a brandy sabayon ($12), beckoned among the appetizers, we were puzzled by the limited selection of native seafood among the entrees. Granted, a menu that spreads itself across pork or lamb chops, duck or chicken breast, and three beef dishes, may want to highlight the exotic, such as Mahi Mahi and Escolar (flown in fresh). But we stuck to the local, and chose blackened Atlantic salmon ($18), enjoyed by one friend, and the sea scallops ($16), enthused over by me. Bill picked the penne with shrimp, pesto and cherry tomatoes ($14), and our other friend landed on the roasted eggplant ravioli ($14).

Full review.